Morocco, part 7: Essaouira

Having had enough of Marrakech, we headed to Essaoiura, a laid-back and pleasant seaside town that we liked very much. The medina (old town where cars aren't permitted) is surrounded by a wall.



We stayed in a lovely dar (small hotel) with a roof terrace, where we drank mint tea, Morocco's beverage of choice.



There wasn't any hassle from touts in Essaouira. If you said "no thanks," vendors would respect your disinterest and not pursue you. What a relief after the constant harrassment in Marrakech.

This fellow seems relaxed.



We had a look at the little port full of row boats and fishing boats.



Some men were repairing ships.





This boat might need more than a little paint:



The ladder below looks as if it's made for people with five-foot-long legs. Check out the amount of space between the rungs.



We saw some fishermen repairing nets.



We took an enjoyable walk on the long, flat beach at dusk. Kids played soccer, and families and couples strolled. Perhaps the rules aren't as strict as we thought, or maybe this particular couple is really wild and crazy.



People ride horses on the beach.



So it's a cliché; it was still a beautiful sunset.



These lamps add some atmosphere to a narrow street on our way back to the hotel from dinner.

Morocco, part 6: Marrakech

Back to our Morocco travelogue. Back on March 17, we left Aït Benhaddou and drove over the Atlas mountains to Marrakech. The road was curvy.



And snowy.



And beautiful.



Like Fes, Marrakech is full of tiny alleyways, most packed with people, but there are some quiet ones as well.



Some are dedicated to particular types of goods, like slippers (babouches) or jewelry. This is the wool-dyers' alley.



Marrakech is great for people-watching.







Guess which of these people is local.



Much activity centers around Djemaa el-Fna, the main square, known as "La Place." There you can find not very charming snake charmers



who drape snakes around unsuspecting tourists' necks and then demand money.



There are also colorful tea carts



as well as vendors of all kinds. (Those are dried fruits and nuts for sale in the foreground. We got dates and almonds -- yum.)



Behind the man in the photo below, you can see the Argana Restaurant, where we had dinner one night on the balcony. A bit over a month later, on April 28, the restaurant was bombed and destroyed, killing both locals and tourists.

Morocco, part 5: Aït Benhaddou

"Take me to the kasbah." Who said that? Seems like a familiar movie phrase. Made us want to go to the well preserved and much filmed kasbah in Aït Benhaddou. You may have seen it in the films "Lawrence of Arabia" or "Gladiator."



Here's a closeup of one section with plenty of greenery.



We stayed in a hotel just across the river, visible in this photo. (The kasbah is in the foreground, and the hotel is in the distance.)



An unofficial guide showed us around. He said animals live in the straw-roof section pictured below while their keepers lived in the rooms above. Having invented his own guide spiel, he pointed out such designs as the crescent moon and said, "That's the moon." So informative.



The whole place is made of earth mixed with straw. It features many towers decorated with tall, narrow, window-like designs, sometimes surrounded by a trellis-looking design. Our pseudo-guide told us that the geometric shapes all had meanings. Then again, he also just made stuff up. He told us the small, narrow building at the top of the hill was the queen's house, whereas our guidebook described it as a granary.



In any case, the place has lots of atmosphere, and we enjoyed the visit.

Morocco, part four: Ouarzazate

Continuing on our Moroccan drive, we headed west toward Ouarzazate. We stopped for lunch outside of the oasis town of Skoura, at Chez Talout. The tasty food may have given us mild intestinal issues later.



Ouarzazate is the center of the Moroccan film industry. Many films you've probably seen were filmed there, including Lawrence of Arabia, Ben Hur, Gladiator, The Mummy (1, 2 and 3), and Kundun. We visited Atlas film studios, one of the most prominent studios in the country. Here we saw the plane from Jewel of the Nile. It doesn't actually fly; it only drives.



These arches were used in Gladiator and reused in other films.



This huge complex was built for Kundun, a film about the Dalai Lama.



These columns were seen in Gladiator as well as The Mummy.



Here's a miniature version of Abu Simbel temple, used in The Mummy. (We went to the real Abu Simbel in Egypt back in 2008.)



This shot shows how flimsy some of the set decorations are. It looks like these pieces on the capitals are made of thin paper. I believe this was a reuse of either a Gladiator or Mummy set for the French film Asterix and Obelisk.



We're posing on the Kundun set with the camera dolly, which allows for smooth shooting when the camera is in motion.

Morocco, part three: the gorges

Some of the highlights of central Morocco are the beautiful Todra and Dades Gorges, next to the Atlas mountains. Driving west from Hassi Labied, we headed toward Todra Gorge.



This area is popular among rock-climbers. We saw a group of young (12- to 14-year-old) French climbers. Here's a shot of a narrow part of the gorge with the road between the rocks.



On the way to the Dades gorge, we passed some camels. No humans visible. Notice the snowy mountains in the background? That's the Atlas range.



Also on the way to Dades, there are some unusual rock formations.



Kasbah-style buildings abound in this part of Morocco.



That night we stayed in a hotel that left something to be desired (i.e. heat). It was nice to get going in the morning. We continued up the Dades Gorge.



The road wound up and up, and we could see geology at work all around us.



We stopped to take some photos, and out of nowhere this guy appeared. He was selling fossils. The price? "As you like." He meant it, too.



This old tower is decorated with a greenish spray-painted symbol (sort of a pitchfork shape). It's the Berber symbol for freedom and is seen all around.



On our way back down through the gorge, the sun illuminated the hairpin turns.



This building, impressively perched on a bit of rock, is a hotel. We should've stayed there.

Morocco, part two: near Merzouga

We rented a car and drove from Fes southwest to Hassi Labied, near Merzouga. Along the way, we passed through a cedar forest, snowy mountains, a town that resembled Switzerland, and the expected desert landscape.

We arrived in the dark at our kasbah-style hotel. The next morning, we went for a walk in the desert. (This is the northern part of the Sahara.)



You can't tell from the photos, but it was incredibly windy. Sand was flying into our faces and we had to lean against the wind while walking.



I had to hold my hands near my face to keep the sand away from my eyes, nose and mouth.



When we emerged from the dunes after our walk, we were greeted by this guy, who was selling fossils, jewelry, and knick-knacks. He hit us up at the beginning of the walk, but we told him "maybe later," and he actually waited for us. For around two hours.



The hotel next to ours had camels. Here's the obligatory camel shot.